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Hibiscus Planting Guide

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Tropics in Your Backyard
Hibiscus

Sometimes life doesn't work out quite as planned and dreams go unfilled. Don't let that keep you down. Create new dreams. In this case, if life fails to deliver you to a comfy chaise lounge in a warm, breezy local with the ocean a few steps away and a cabana boy feeding you sweet grapes, improvise. Grow your own delightful escape site. Hibiscus establish good sized clumps, about the height and breath of small shrubs, and can be used to screen of a part of the yard to create a little get away. These flower-filled, woody perennials grow denser and produce more blooms each season until they reach maturity at about three years old. Come July the plants are leafy and just starting to unfurl their huge flowers. Plan things right and you'll have a secret hide in a quiet corner of the yard way where you can stretch out on a chaise and relax. Don't worry, we won't tell anyone where you've snuck off to. . . secrets are meant to be kept.

Outdoor Beds
  1. Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2-3" to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. Hibiscus like an average amount of moisture and will reward you with more flowers and denser foliage if given a little extra moisture, but they will not be happy in soils that are water logged. Also, if you have very acidic soil it is advisable to amend to bring your pH back to neutral before planting hibiscus, as they do not care for acid environments.
  2. Site your plants where they will receive full sun to light shade. Choose a site with a bit of shade in parts of the country with strong sun.
  3. Plant so that the soil level in the pot and the ground soil are even. If the hibiscus is sited above the level of the surrounding soil it may dry out, if below, it may sit in a puddle causing the plant to rot.
  4. After planting, water your hibiscus generously, soaking the soil to settle it around the roots. Then, be patient. Hibiscus are notoriously slow to sprout and typically are the last plants to show signs of new growth in the spring. When they do start to grow however, they really take off.
  5. During your hibiscus's active growing period, provide water if rain does not occur. Keep in mind that weekly deep waterings are better than lighter drinks every day or two. About 1" of water per week is a good estimate of the amount needed during active growth periods; modify as needed for your individual situation.
  6. When in bloom, feel free to cut the flowers for bouquets. This will not hurt the plants.
  7. After flowering has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed. Leaves and stalks may be removed when they yellow.
  8. If you garden in a location cooler than zone 9, you'll need to lift glory lily bulbs and store them indoors in ever so slightly damp peat moss. Or you can just replace them next spring for another year of winged blooms.
  9. Your hibiscus will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle in the spring. Remeber, these plants are very sleepy and will be among the last to spring with the advent of spring warmth.
Pots, Barrels, Tubs & Urns
  1. Start with a large container and fill with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes in your pots; hibiscus plants must not sit in waterlogged soil.
  2. Site your plants where they will receive full sun to light shade. Choose a site with a bit of shade in parts of the country with strong sun.
  3. Plant so that the soil level in the pot and the ground soil are even. If the hibiscus is sited above the level of the surrounding soil it may dry out, if below, it may sit in a puddle causing the plant to rot.
  4. After planting, water your hibiscus generously, soaking the soil to settle it around the roots. Then, be patient. Hibiscus are notoriously slow to sprout and typically are the last plants to show signs of new growth in the spring. When they do start to grow however, they really take off.
  5. During your hibiscus's active growing period, provide water if rain does not occur. Keep in mind that weekly deep waterings are better than lighter drinks every day or two. About 1" of water per week is a good estimate of the amount needed during active growth periods; modify as needed for your individual situation.
  6. When in bloom, feel free to cut the flowers for bouquets. This will not hurt the plants.
  7. After flowering has finished for the season leave the foliage in place; don't cut it off. The leaves will gather sunlight, create food through photosynthesis and strengthen the bulb for the future. Water as needed. Leaves and stalks may be removed when they yellow.
  8. If you garden in a location cooler than zone 9, you'll need to lift glory lily bulbs and store them indoors in ever so slightly damp peat moss. Or you can just replace them next spring for another year of winged blooms.
  9. Your hibiscus will rest for a few months before beginning the next growing cycle in the spring. Remeber, these plants are very sleepy and will be among the last to spring with the advent of spring warmth.
Note: As mentioned above, hibiscus are notoriously slow to break dormancy in the spring. Don't give up on them because when they do w